The New York Times: Five fast week-night dishes with bold flavours

Genevieve Ko
The New York Times
Soba noodles with ginger broth and crunchy ginger. If you still need to finish off the last of your turkey, enjoy it with this soothing noodle soup from Yotam Ottolenghi. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (Christopher Simpson/The New York Times)
Soba noodles with ginger broth and crunchy ginger. If you still need to finish off the last of your turkey, enjoy it with this soothing noodle soup from Yotam Ottolenghi. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (Christopher Simpson/The New York Times) Credit: NYT

Are you still sandwiching, stewing, and Hot Pocket-ing turkey? The leftovers that became effortless dinners for days are pretty much gone (and I truly cannot eat anything else with that roasted bird).

But it’s nice to be back in the kitchen, right? All you have to make now is a simple meal for yourself and maybe the others you normally feed. After Thanksgiving’s creamy richness and slow bakes, it’s refreshing to chase sharp, tangy, hot flavours in fast dishes.

These meals feel as bright as the sparkling lights strung everywhere and come together quickly enough to leave time for writing cards, sending gifts, and baking all the cookies.

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1. Soba Noodles With Ginger Broth and Crunchy Ginger

This noodle dish celebrates the pungent, spicy notes of ginger by both infusing it in stock to create a warming broth and frying it with shallots and panko to create crunchy ginger crumbs you’ll want to sprinkle onto everything: eggs, rice or even a savory porridge. Feel free to double the amount of the ginger crumbs, if you like; they’ll keep in an airtight jar at room temperature for up to one week. Serve these noodles with your protein of choice — tofu, fish, leftover roast chicken — or any cooked vegetable for a complete meal.

By Yotam Ottolenghi

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

For the Toppings:

6 tablespoons/90 milliliters olive oil

1 1/2 teaspoons red-pepper (chile) flakes

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger (about 30 grams), peeled and finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1/4 cup/20 grams panko breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon white and black sesame seeds

Kosher salt

For the Broth:

2 1/4 cups/500 millilitres chicken stock or vegetable stock

1 (4-inch) piece fresh ginger (about 65 grams), peeled and roughly chopped (about 1/3 cup)

1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped

1 small head of garlic, halved crosswise

For the Noodles:

7 to 9 ounces/about 200 grams dried soba noodles

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/3 cup/10 grams roughly chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)

Preparation:

1. First, prepare the toppings: Add 4 tablespoons oil to a large skillet and heat gently over medium. Place the red-pepper (chile) flakes and paprika into a small heatproof bowl. Once the oil is quite hot but not smoking, pour it over the spices. Set aside to infuse as you make the ginger crumbs.

2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the same skillet and heat over medium-high. Once hot, turn the heat back down to medium and add the ginger and shallot. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until nicely browned and starting to crisp. Add the panko, sesame seeds and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and cook for 4 to 6 minutes more, stirring often, until nicely toasted. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, make the broth: Add all the broth ingredients plus 3/4 cup/200 milliliters water and 1 teaspoon salt to a medium lidded saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover once simmering, turn the heat down to low and cook for 25 minutes. Drain through a sieve set over a bowl, discarding the solids, and return the broth to the saucepan along with another 1 1/4 cups/300 milliliters hot water. Keep warm over low heat until ready to serve.

4. Prepare the noodles: Boil them in a pot or saucepan according to package instructions, or for 5 minutes in plenty of boiling water. Drain well and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Return the drained noodles to the pot or saucepan and toss with the lime juice, soy sauce and cilantro (coriander).

5. Divide the warm broth across four bowls, then use a fork to twist and gather the noodles and nest them artfully in the bowls. Top with a spoonful of the ginger crumbs and the chile oil, serving the remaining alongside.

Roasted fish and broccolini with tamarind and black pepper. Yewande Komolafe brilliantly roasts fish  any type of fillet  over broccolini in a single skillet and punches up those subtle ingredients with a tangy, aromatic sauce. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Roscoe Betsill. (Kelly Marshall/The New York Times)
Roasted fish and broccolini with tamarind and black pepper. Yewande Komolafe brilliantly roasts fish any type of fillet over broccolini in a single skillet and punches up those subtle ingredients with a tangy, aromatic sauce. Props styled by Paige Hicks. Food styled by Roscoe Betsill. (Kelly Marshall/The New York Times) Credit: KELLY MARSHALL/NYT

2. Roasted Fish and Broccolini With Tamarind and Black Pepper

A single skillet is all you need for this delicious, convenient, and comforting weeknight meal. With its caramel-like tang and pleasant pucker, tamarind enlivens the marinade for fish fillets in this simple baked fish recipe. Rich with coconut milk and infused with garlic, ginger, and freshly ground black pepper, the quick marinade glazes the fish and bathes the vegetables. Broccolini is used here, but cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, or hearty leafy greens such as chard, turnip, or beet greens can be substituted. This sauce is versatile and pairs well with most fish, so go with the fillets that look freshest on the market.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes, plus marinating

Ingredients:

4 fish fillets (6 ounces each), such as snapper, haddock, cod, striped bass, fluke, sablefish or salmon, skin on or off

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper

1/4 cup store-bought tamarind purée or 1 tablespoon tamarind paste (See Tip)

1 tablespoon molasses

1-inch piece fresh ginger, scrubbed and finely grated

2 garlic cloves, finely grated

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut cream or coconut milk

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 bunch scallions, trimmed

1 pound Broccolini (2 to 3 bunches), cut into 3-inch pieces

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Steamed grains, such as rice or fonio, for serving

1 lime, sliced into wedges, for serving

Preparation:

1. Season both sides of the fish lightly with salt and black pepper. In a large bowl, combine the tamarind purée, molasses, ginger, garlic, coconut cream, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Thinly slice 2 scallions and add to the marinade. Cut the remaining scallions into 1-inch pieces and set aside. Add the fish to the marinade and turn to coat. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes and up to 12 hours.

2. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. In a large (12-inch) oven-safe skillet, combine the Broccolini and chopped scallions. Toss with 1 tablespoon oil and season lightly with salt and black pepper. Spread in an even layer, then place the fish right on top of the vegetables and pour any leftover marinade over the fish.

3. Roast until the fish is opaque but the centre is not cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. The fish should not flake easily with a fork. Remove the pan from the oven and heat the broiler to high. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil over the fish.

4. Move the pan to the broiler and finish cooking, rotating the pan once, until the fish is tender and flakes easily and the Broccolini is just tender and beginning to brown in spots, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the broiler and sprinkle the fish with chopped cilantro.

5. Serve the fish and Broccolini over steamed grains, such as rice or fonio. Tip the pan juices over the fish and serve with lime wedges for squeezing.

Tips: Tamarind can be purchased as a purée or paste and varies in degrees of concentration. Taste store-bought tamarind before use to determine how acidic it is and how much to use in the marinade. Tamarind pods or pulp can also be purchased to make the purée at home. All options are available online or at African, Caribbean or Asian grocery stores.

Jerk chicken meatballs with bbq-pineapple glaze. Take a break from roasted poultry with these chicken meatballs from Millie Peartree. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Christopher Simpson/The New York Times)
Jerk chicken meatballs with bbq-pineapple glaze. Take a break from roasted poultry with these chicken meatballs from Millie Peartree. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Christopher Simpson/The New York Times) Credit: CHRISTOPHER SIMPSON/NYT

3. Jerk Chicken Meatballs With BBQ-Pineapple Glaze

This recipe takes the deep flavour of jerk chicken and turns it into easy meatballs. The jerk seasoning paste does double duty here, adding both spices and moisture, so don’t reach for dry jerk seasoning. Whether served alone as an appetizer, over rice, or even tucked in a sandwich, these meatballs are perfectly salty, sweet and spicy.

By Millie Peartree

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

For the Meatballs:

Neutral oil

1 pound ground chicken or turkey

1 small yellow or red onion, finely diced

1 egg, beaten

1/4 cup breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons Jamaican jerk seasoning paste, such as Grace or Walkerswood

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For the Glaze:

1 cup pineapple juice

1/2 packed cup light or dark brown sugar

1/4 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 small garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

Pinch of red-pepper flakes

Pinch of kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon cornstarch

White rice, for serving

Preparation:

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line a sheet pan with aluminium foil and very lightly coat it with oil.

2. Prepare the meatballs: In a medium bowl, combine the chicken, onion, egg, breadcrumbs, jerk seasoning paste, parsley, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly to combine, being careful not to overwork the meat. Using lightly wet hands, form the mixture into 12 meatballs, each a bit larger than a golf ball, and space them out on the prepared pan. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. (Alternatively, you can fry them in a nonstick pan coated in oil over medium heat for about 4 to 5 minutes per side.)

3. While the meatballs cook, prepare the glaze: Whisk the pineapple juice, brown sugar, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, onion powder, red-pepper flakes, and salt together in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until it reduces enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 to 15 minutes.

4. In a small bowl, mix together the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water. Slowly whisk into the sauce, increase the heat to medium and stir until you reach the desired consistency. (Sauce should look like a thicker gravy.) Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

5. Add the meatballs to the sauce and stir until coated. Cook over medium-low heat for 2 minutes, until the meatballs are evenly glazed and deepen slightly in colour. Serve hot on their own or over rice.

Warm roasted carrot and barley salad. Its salad season in Hetty Lui McKinnons native Australia, but she created this hearty dish for chilly, late fall days. Food styled by Rebecca Jurkevich. (Beatriz Da Costa/The New York Times)
Warm roasted carrot and barley salad. Its salad season in Hetty Lui McKinnons native Australia, but she created this hearty dish for chilly, late fall days. Food styled by Rebecca Jurkevich. (Beatriz Da Costa/The New York Times) Credit: BEATRIZ DA COSTA/NYT

4. Warm Roasted Carrot and Barley Salad

There is something very exciting about transforming a simple bunch of carrots into a deeply flavourful and satisfying weeknight meal. Carrots are given a lot of love here: Leaving the skin on adds texture, slicing them into thin batons ensures that they cook quickly and evenly, and drizzling them with honey right out of the oven amplifies their natural sweetness. A sprinkle of lemon zest adds brightness. Ras el hanout, a North African spice blend, means “head of the shop” in Arabic as it was often one of the best mixes a vendor had to offer. Its fragrant blend of coriander, cumin, ginger, clove and turmeric brings warmth and richness to the tahini. The perfect chew of pearl barley is so gratifying in this dish, but for even more flavour, cook your barley in stock.

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

Yield: 6 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

1 cup pearled barley

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 pounds carrots, washed, trimmed and cut into 3-inch-long, a scant 1/2-inch-wide batons

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons runny honey, such as clover honey

1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon zest (from 1/2 lemon)

2 cups arugula

A handful of parsley

1/4 cup toasted sliced almonds

For the spiced tahini:

1/4 cup tahini

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (from 1/2 lemon)

1 teaspoon ras el hanout

1 small garlic clove, grated

Preparation:

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees and place a rack on the lowest shelf. In a medium saucepan, combine barley with 4 cups water; season with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. If the barley hasn’t absorbed all of the water, drain off the excess.

2. Meanwhile, place the carrots on a sheet pan, drizzle with the olive oil, and toss to coat, spreading into an even layer. Season with salt and pepper. Place on the bottom oven rack and roast until tender and starting to turn golden, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss, and return to the oven for 5 to 7 minutes until completely tender.

3. While the carrots roast, make the dressing: In a medium bowl, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice, ras el hanout, garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it is smooth and has a pourable consistency.

4. When the carrots are ready, remove them from the oven, drizzle with honey, and sprinkle with lemon zest. Season with a pinch of salt and toss to coat.

5. In a serving bowl, combine the carrots with the barley, arugula and parsley. Drizzle with the spiced tahini and sprinkle with almonds.

Pork chops with kale and dates. This dinner for two from Ali Slagle feels as special as a restaurant dish but comes together in one pan in half an hour. Food styled by Cybelle Tondu. (Johnny Miller/The New York Times)
Pork chops with kale and dates. This dinner for two from Ali Slagle feels as special as a restaurant dish but comes together in one pan in half an hour. Food styled by Cybelle Tondu. (Johnny Miller/The New York Times) Credit: JOHNNY MILLER/NYT

5. Pork Chops With Kale and Dates

A fat and juicy pork chop will always shine on a dinner plate, and these are especially star-worthy. For browned outsides, evenly cooked insides, and fewer splatters, cook them over moderate heat and flip them often. Use this method for basic pork chops, or continue with the recipe for a tangy and bittersweet tumble of kale, dates, garlic, and vinegar inspired by bittersweet meat dishes like suon kho, orange beef or root beer-glazed ham. Instead of kale, use another bitter green like escarole or radicchio, but keep the dates, which contribute a sweetness far more nuanced than straight sugar. Eat with roasted potatoes, grits or on top of a thick piece of toast.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 2 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

2 (1- to 1 1/2-inch-thick) bone-in pork rib chops (10 to 12 ounces each), patted very dry

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon neutral oil (such as grapeseed or canola)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 fresh rosemary sprigs or sage leaves (optional)

6 Medjool dates, pitted and sliced

4 garlic cloves, smashed very well and peeled

1 bunch kale, ribs removed, leaves torn

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar or Sherry vinegar

Preparation:

1. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium. Season the pork chops all over with salt and pepper. Add the oil and the pork chops to the skillet. Cook, flipping every 2 minutes, until browned on the outside and the internal temperature in the thickest part is around 130 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes depending on thickness of pork chops. If your chops have a fat cap, using tongs, stack both chops on top of one another, then grab both chops together and hold upright to sear the fat caps until crisp, about 1 minute.

2. Turn off the heat, add the butter and rosemary, if using. Tilt the skillet and baste the pork by spooning the butter and drippings over the pork for about 1 minute. Transfer the pork and rosemary to a plate, leaving the drippings in the skillet.

3. Add the dates and garlic to the skillet, then pile in the kale but don’t stir. Return the skillet to medium heat and cook untouched until the dates and bottom layer of kale is charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add a tablespoon of water, then cook, stirring often, until the kale is dark green and slightly wilted, another minute or two. Remove from the heat, stir in the vinegar, then season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. To serve, discard the rosemary. Slice the pork away from the bones and thinly slice against the grain. Eat with the kale and any resting juices.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

© 2023 The New York Times Company

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