Tanning expert James Read reveals the five tips you need to know to avoid the biggest tan fails

Perhaps it’s for a wedding, maybe it’s for a holiday, or maybe you just want a bit of a glow, so you decide to treat yourself to a fake tan.

There’s no shortage of formulations to choose from, including sprays, mousses, serums and body butter, with some even promising to deliver skincare benefits, too.

I asked James Read, the top name in tanning who’s given glow-ups to everyone from Rosie Huntington-Whiteley to Lady Gaga, for his advice on how to avoid the most common mistakes, whether it’s blotchy ankles or elbows, or, my speciality, knees that look more like Nutella swirls than the sun-kissed glow I’d been aiming for.

Here are James’s expert tips for avoiding those tan disasters at home.

The over-done face

Less is more is the most important thing when it comes to tanning your face, says James.

“You want to think of the end result as more of a glow than a tan,” he said.

“The first rule is not to apply too much product.

“Secondly, make sure your skin is as hydrated as possible before applying the self-tan.

“I exfoliate and use a hydrating sheet mask as I find the product is absorbed better and the finished effect will look more glowy.”

“When applying the product, try to work it in from the neck upwards as if you’re giving yourself a mini facial,” he adds.

It’s also a good idea to use a sheet mask the following day, as self-tans can be drying on the skin. This will make your ‘tan’ last longer too.

James’s top tip for the face?

“Avoid drinking straight from a glass after you’ve applied the self-tan — use a straw, instead, to avoid white marks or an uneven tan around the mouth.”

The hairline gap

Lots of people, especially blondes, are wary of applying the tanning product too close to the hairline.

To avoid this, James recommends applying some moisturiser to a cotton bud and smudging the tanning product up to the hairline once you’ve finished applying it on your face.

Tell-tale hands

For hands, James recommends you use less product than you think you need.

After moisturising and applying self-tan to your arms, the easiest way to give hands a realistic “tan” is to wipe the backs of the hands along your forearms to absorb excess product.

This is usually enough for the hands, rather than a separate application of product on them.

You could use a self-tan mist on the hands, which can also work well.

And remember to wash just the palms afterwards: use a soapy, wet, dark flannel!

Dodgy knees

To prevent the tanning product from settling in lines and looking too dark James says: “Exfoliate and moisturise.”

“Moisturise knees and elbows and anywhere where the skin is extra dry.”

A thorough exfoliation and body moisturising session before applying your tan can also help avoid those telltale white diamond shapes developing on the inner elbows and arms after a couple of days as the tan begins to fade and becomes patchy.

“If you do have an elbow or knee disaster once the colour develops,” James suggests, “cut a lemon in half and apply to the area. The colour should fade after 15 minutes.”

Blotchy ankles

When it comes to your feet, heels and ankles are particularly tricky to tan and must be slathered in moisturiser beforehand to avoid the product settling in crevices.

Dry skin patches on the toes can also make the tan look blotchy and uneven.

“You can apply some cuticle oil around the toes for an extra hydrating boost pre-tanning,” says James.

“Using a tanning mitt is also helpful for the feet and will give a more realistic overall tan. The mitt buffs in the tan more than using just the hands, so you’ll end up with a better finish.”

Easy-to-use self-tans

Best for face

Dusk to Dawn Overnight Glow Facial from Self Glow by James Read, £44, jamesreadglow.com: evens out the skin tone and makes you look like you’ve had a weekend away.

Best for body

St Tropez Self Tan Classic Bronzing Mousse, from $39.99 at Priceline: A good all-rounder for most skin tones — and the St Tropez application mitt, is cheap and easy to use too.

Foolproof instant spritz

By Terry Tea to Tan Face and Body Spray, from $50, Mecca: An instant spritz of colour, so not strictly a self-tanner but any mistakes can be washed off instantly. Fabulous on legs and a very realistic colour. Lasts for ages, too.