The New York Times: The egg dish you need to make right now

Poaching eggs in a simmering tomato sauce is a classic path to a quick, meatless meal.

Be it an oniony shakshuka or chile-flecked eggs in purgatory, the mix of tangy-sweet tomatoes swirled with runny egg yolk is a perennial crowd-pleaser, as welcome on the table for a steamy Easter brunch as it is for a cozy dinner on any chilly evening.

My latest take on this saucy combination was born on one of those blustery nights when the idea of adding warm spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and turmeric to the tomatoes struck me as self-care. I sensed that the aromatherapy alone could help soothe my frazzled nerves.

As I pulled out the spice tins, their combination reminded me of Julie Sahni’s ande ki kari (egg curry), which I adapted for this column a few years ago. In her traditional recipe, the eggs are hard-cooked and peeled in advance, then warmed in a fragrant tomato base spiked with fresh ginger and garam masala.

There are myriad versions of egg curry across India, just as there are endless variations on eggs in purgatory and shakshuka. The more forgiving the recipe, the easier it is to adapt it and make it your own. And tomato-laced skillet eggs are as forgiving as they come.

So, for my dinner on that cold and hectic night, I cherry-picked elements of each egg dish to suit myself. I kept the warm spices of the curry, and borrowed the olive oil, canned tomatoes and poached eggs from shakshuka and eggs in purgatory. The elements melded perfectly, making for a heady, aromatic meal with runny eggs that flowed richly onto my toast (though rice would have worked just as well).

One note about those canned tomatoes: Although any kind will work, canned cherry tomatoes are my favourite here, giving the dish a particularly sweet flavour and chunky texture. But use what you have: Diced, plum, even crushed or puréed tomatoes are welcome in the pan. Or, if you’re making this in tomato season, substitute chopped fresh tomatoes, making sure to cook them a few minutes longer so they break down.

As quickly as this sauce comes together, you can still make it a few days ahead. Just bring it to a simmer before cracking in the eggs. This turns a fast meal into an instant one, and a comforting dish into a downright cheering one.

Recipe: Skillet Eggs With Garam Masala and Tomatoes

By Melissa Clark

Like a mashup of shakshuka, eggs in purgatory and egg curry, this aromatic dish consists of jammy eggs cooked in a quickly made tomato sauce that’s scented with cardamom, garam masala and cinnamon. Canned cherry tomatoes give this sauce an especially sweet flavour, but if you can’t find them, canned diced tomatoes will also work. Although the sauce comes together quickly, you can make it ahead. It’ll keep for at least three days in the refrigerator. Then bring it to a simmer just before cracking in the eggs. Serve with toast or over rice to catch every bit of runny yolk.

Yield: 3 to 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil or coconut oil
• 1 medium onion, diced
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more as needed
• 2 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, finely grated
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick (optional)
• 8 cardamom pods, lightly crushed with the flat side of a knife (or 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom)
• 2 teaspoons garam masala
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
• 1 (14-ounce) can cherry tomatoes (or diced tomatoes)
• 6 to 8 large eggs, depending on how many fit in your skillet
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, for garnish

Preparation:

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Add the oil to a large cast-iron skillet or other oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onion and a pinch of salt, and cook until tender and golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and ginger, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the bay leaf, cinnamon stick (if using), cardamom, garam masala, coriander, cumin, turmeric and red-pepper flakes. Stir continuously for 30 seconds to 1 minute until spices are fragrant.

3. Add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 cup water, and bring sauce to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer vigorously until the sauce has thickened, using the back of a spoon to crush the tomatoes, 6 to 8 minutes. Taste and add more salt as needed.

4. Carefully crack eggs over the sauce, and sprinkle lightly with salt. Bake uncovered for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the eggs are still soft but set. Serve sprinkled with more salt and chopped cilantro.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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