In its 900th anniversary, Scotland’s Wallace Monument in Stirling is a must-see for those brave at heart

Steve McKenna
The West Australian
The Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat at the western end of the main range of the Ochil hills, Clackmannanshire.
The Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat at the western end of the main range of the Ochil hills, Clackmannanshire. Credit: Damian Shields/Supplied

Made a royal burgh by King David I of Scotland in 1124 AD, Stirling is marking its 900th anniversary this year with a program of celebrations, from parades and exhibitions to concerts and immersive theatre and arts.

One of the recent organised events saw a group of budding and seasoned painters gather in the shadow of the National Wallace Monument to capture their own versions of this neo-Gothic sandstone landmark.

Relatively young in Stirling terms — it was unveiled only in 1869 — the monument has a formidable presence, soaring 67m atop a wooded hill on the city’s northern outskirts.

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It honours William Wallace, who famously led a Scots army to a crushing victory over the English here in 1297 AD.

The hero of the so-called “Battle of Stirling Bridge”, Wallace was, of course, immortalised by Mel Gibson in the 1995 movie, Braveheart, and for almost a decade a stone sculpture of Gibson, as Wallace, sat near the entrance of this monument.

The National Wallace Monument is a stirring spectacle in Stirling.
The National Wallace Monument is a stirring spectacle in Stirling. Credit: Kenny Lam/Supplied
Tour guide at the Wallace Monument tells of William Wallace's life.
Tour guide at the Wallace Monument tells of William Wallace's life. Credit: Kenny Lam/Supplied

Despite being popular with many tourists, it wasn’t universally loved, and was returned to the studio of its sculptor Tom Church before finding a new home at Brechin City Football Club, a ground located between Dundee and Aberdeen, in 2021.

There remains here depictions of the real Wallace, including a statue on the monument’s exterior and a stained glass window inside the tower, where an exhibition is set across several levels with each floor accessible via a narrow spiral staircase containing 246 steps in all.

Wallace’s old sword is among the exhibits on display and an overhaul for the monument’s 150th birthday just before COVID saw new interactive, family-friendly features added.

So you can now, for example, design your own heraldic shield and pose with it as it’s projected onto a wall.

Touchscreens allow you to get the lay of the land, comparing the late-13th century Stirling battleground to the present-day city (population: around 100,000).

Wallace isn’t the only Scot revered at the monument.

The National Wallace Monument has striking busts and stained glass windows.
The National Wallace Monument has striking busts and stained glass windows. Credit: Steve McKenna/The West Australian

The Hall of Heroes has busts portraying other national luminaries, including the poet Robert ‘Rabbie’ Burns and the inventor and scientist James Watt.

While the original lot praised only men, Scotland’s heroines are now lauded and there are busts of cancer campaigner Maggie Keswick Jencks and missionary Mary Slessor (they were selected by public vote and created by female sculptors in Scotland).

It’s worth going to the very top of the monument, to The Crown, which has breezy panoramas, with pastoral fields, forested peaks, the horseshoe bend of the River Forth and Stirling Castle — almost 4km to the south — seizing your attention.

I’ve been up here on a clear day, when you can see the verdant, mountain-dotted surrounds in their full glory, but the views are still bonnie (beautiful) even on this drizzly and slightly misty morning (I’m not the only one to think so by the sounds of the French, Australian and American tourists snapping pictures beside me).

View of the Ochils from the top of the Wallace Monument.
View of the Ochils from the top of the Wallace Monument. Credit: Kenny Lam/Supplied

Downstairs, a gift shop has various Wallace-themed souvenirs, from books to beers.

The exhibition explores his patriotism and martyrdom and the Battle of Stirling Bridge itself, but even better is the open-air live performance of “Scotland’s National Hero”.

Staged several times daily on selected days of the week, it’s played by a sword-wielding actor, clad in medieval warrior garb, pacing the lawn by the monument.

So compelling is his 15-minute performance as he charts the twists and turns of Wallace’s life and death with a thespian flourish that I almost don’t notice the rain drops trickling down my face. + Steve McKenna was a guest of Visit Scotland. They have not influenced or seen this story.

fact file

+ Stirling’s National Wallace Monument is open daily, except Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day, with admission priced £11.30 ($21.50) for visitors aged 16-60, £9.20 ($17.50) for seniors and £7.10 ($13.50) for children aged 5-15. For more information, see nationalwallacemonument.com

+ While it’s good for an overnight stop, Stirling is also an easy day trip from Edinburgh (50 minutes by rail) and Glasgow (35 minutes). See yourstirling.com

+To help plan your travels to Scotland and Britain, see visitscotland.com and visitbritain.com

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