Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort is the island escape beyond the brochures in one of Fiji’s best luxury holidays

For years, Fiji existed in my mind as a sun-bleached annex of the 1980s — somewhere between an RSL club brochure and an aunt’s faded photo album.

It was where she honeymooned — first and third husbands — and a place where people seemingly drank colourful thirst-quenchers with pastel umbrellas, those same people returning both tanned and with an almost evangelical belief in island life. Fiji was, in my mind, all hibiscus, hammocks and hotel buffets. And it remains those things. But in landing there for the first time only recently, and skipping through Nadi and onto a small twin-prop plane bound for the northern island of Vanua Levu and time at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort — well, there’s more. Let’s first climb into the family tree given that surname (for those familiar with the famed French oceanographer and for those not, realise Wes Anderson’s The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou is at times a doco). Jean-Michel is the son of adventurer, conservationist (and devout beanie wearer) Jacques, and a respected undersea explorer and filmmaker in his own right.

While Jacques never made it out here, his young son did during his travels in the 80s. Back then the resort was backpacker accommodation facing a rather dire future (read: Fijian politics) — enter a US investor, Jean-Michel and the lending of his name to the property, which today stands far removed from that original build and which ROAM recently explored following a multi-million-dollar renovation. The drive from the airport — and by airport we mean small shack, cyclone fencing, short runway — builds the setting and the vibe that frames time here. Through lush rainforests, past timber houses of pastel colour, various meandering chickens and the occasional meandering pig and groups of school children who smile and wave on their walk home, there’s an immediate and almost tangible ease to Vanua Levu.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort sits at the easterly end of Lesiaceva Road — the concluding element to a peninsula that juts into the vibrant blues of Savusavu Bay.

The water licks the land land here — you’re only ever mere metres from the sand — as we discover on locating our bure, an updated two-bedroom affair (one king, the other two singles) of polished mahogany floors, vaulted ceilings with exposed beans, wooden louvered windows, fresh bedding, new lighting and a generous front deck hung with a hammock and pair of sunloungers.

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It’s here, on said deck, that Janice provides a welcome that will forever trump any decent bottle of chilled French champagne and an ice bucket. Janice’s bucket is of warm water — the offer a gentle foot scrub of brown sugar and massage of native creams and oils. It’s to relieve stress, she says, and properly welcome guests to Fiji. Job done Janice. The bure’s pebble-lined and wooden bathroom means dual sinks and spacious shower, the main bedroom also boasting desk space and a coach on which to laze under ceiling fans and AC. There’s also no TV — a welcome touch that asks you avoid outside interference (though the wifi is annoyingly decent). There’s a very real sense that you can land here and easily slink into Fiji time and do nothing. As for Fiji time, know it’s a real concept and one you come to appreciate after the second day. But to come here and lose yourself solely to the peace of a bure and the gentle grassed expanse of the property (or a poolside sunlounger or cabana) would be at odds with what the resort is known for — the bounty held in its waters and the reason it holds the Cousteau name. While each day comes with an itinerary of available activity (mountain hiking, village tours, language lessons, crab trap making, more) it’s what lies beneath the surface that lures people from across the world.

While ROAM landed ahead of Thomson’s first run at the burners, the former Rockpool and Flying Fish chef spoke of a desire to further enhance and drive the use of locally sourced products via increased relationships with local farmers and fisherman and greater seasonal utilisation of the property’s greenhouses and impressive gardens. What we sampled during our time was a taste of what Thomson will build upon — menus crafted to showcase locality and a surprising breadth of Fijian flavours, standouts including grilled walu and kokoda — a delicate local take on ceviche. Kava is also available with the singing Bula Boys by the pool. It looks like mud, tastes earthy, and won’t get you high. While there’s no actual need to exert oneself, particularly after becoming enveloped by Fiji time, know Jean-Michel’s slick new gym is stacked with equipment that covers free-weights and machines (so too welcome AC), with tennis, paddle boarding, daily yoga, ping pong and sailing also available. Of the excursions — the trek to Maroroya Falls, weaving up and through dense rainforest to the swimming pools is worthwhile, so too a Saturday drive into nearby Savusavu to experience the local market, some localism and witness current fashions that have white gum boots held in desire.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort Lesiaceva Pt Road, Savusavu, Fiji PRICEAll-inclusive rates cover a la carte meals, non-alcoholic drinks, kids’ club and many resort activities, as well as return Savusavu transfers. Oceanfront two-bedroom bure (twin-share) from $3169 per night.

INSIDER As a parent, the Bula Club for kids is unbeatable and will enable solid adult time, be it poolside or out on the water or at the rather impressive spa. Of the accommodation, aim for the Ocean Front Villa with private pool. fijiresort.com