Ligurian life: Celebrity chef Curtis Stone on the pull of Portofino and its iconic coastline

Curtis Stone first visited the Italian Riviera in his 20s, on a trip with a mate who held family ties to Calabria.

He was instantly wooed by the iconic coastline and taken by the Italian way of life, which has long informed his way of cooking. Even the menu at his award-winning LA restaurant, Maude, is inspired by Italy’s regional flavours.

The Melbourne-born, LA-based Stone, who became a household name thanks to the boy-next-door charms that saw him become a regular on Oprah in the early Noughties, returned to Portofino to host a series of luxurious dinners at Hotel Splendido last September.

It affirmed his attachment to the historic seaside destination he frequents with his actor wife, Lindsay Price.

Ahead of his June twirl on SBS’ Who Do You Think You Are, Stone speaks to ROAM about the almost familial pull of Portofino — and why his large “Roman” nose has served him well in the kitchen.

Read the latest edition of ROAM here

“Portofino is hands-down one of my favourite places in the world.

“When I first visited in my early 20s, I couldn’t afford anything because this area of Italy is not cheap. Everything is so expensive, but it’s the ingredients and how they cook that resonated with me. It’s all about how they cook simply and passionately. You’ll find fruit and vegetables that are nowhere more seasonally driven than in Italy. And what comes out of the ocean is from this coastline is magnificent. The beautiful shellfish are fresh and tossed in dishes with flavours you will long remember.

“You can’t help but notice how well-dressed everybody is along the coastline as you go from town to town. The stores are beautifully presented and restaurants are warm and welcoming. I love Italian style — they really take pride in the way they look.

“When it comes to cooking and the country’s influence on my own, I’m drawn to their approach of less is more. They put maximum effort into dishes, but it doesn’t appear that way.

“I remember eating langoustines cooked in tomato sauce with spaghetti at a Beach Club in Bagni Fiore in the bay of Paraggi. You look at this dish wondering how can this be tasty? But it’s a flavour you will long remember; it’s the care that goes into the ingredient selection that makes all the difference.

“They choose the best tomatoes at their ripest, cook with nice wine, use the freshest scampi and extract the claws of the langoustines to turn into a sauce they mix through the tomatoes and cook the pasta perfectly. Somehow it all adds up to this unbelievable plate of food.

“As a chef you rely on technique you learn along the way, and that’s very important, but sometimes there doesn’t have to be 10 elements to food.

“Langosteria Restaurant stands out for its pasta and the atmosphere is very chic — a Dior-themed cabana setting on the Italian Riviera; a beautiful spot to visit and take in the scenery. I went back the following day (after a dinner) and ordered the same dish for lunch because it was that fantastic.

“You’ll find lots of beach clubs in Portofino including the very expensive Dolce & Gabbana themed one at La Carillon with the national park nearby.

“Portofino and the coastal towns around it are worth exploring. You’ll be taken by the geography, and you can’t help but notice the cars that drive up and down that coastline, it is all about being seen. It’s where I sit up a little straighter, and try a little harder (laughs). I trade my flip-flops and wearing a cap backwards for something more stylish. I always buy loafers and nice shoes, linen shorts and shirt when I visit.

“As a chef who is constantly busy, being in Italy allows me to slow down. It’s less rushing and thinking what’s next and a chance to lean into their lifestyle.

“My wife Lindsay and I also spent time in the gastronomic food capital of the Riviera in Recco — a town nestled between Genoa and Portofino. They make an incredible Focaccia di Recco, a globally recognised flatbread that’s filled with local cheese that’s more like pizza than focaccia.

“This is one of the greatest food experiences of my culinary life, again, so simple. We stayed at Splendido Belmond Hotel. You need to sell something before you go it’s that special. It’s an ancient monastery overlooking Portofino’s famous bay and harbour and was converted into a hotel at the beginning of the 1900s. I had the pleasure of cooking here at their famous Grill Restaurant — a moment I’ll never forget.”