Melbourne winter guide: Christian Kimber, Alexandra Drewniak and Reko Rennie reveal the city’s best spots

Melbourne sports a sense of confidence across its shoulders in the height (should it not be lows?) of winter.

Where the capital’s interstate cousins cosplay with puffer jackets and apologise for some minor dips in temperature — lowering their voices and retreating indoors awaiting the sun to come back and rescue them — Melbourne does the opposite. It sticks on a better coat, orders a sharp coffee and quietly reminds the rest of the country that cold weather can have considerably more personality than endless blue skies.

This is a city — Australia’s most liveable (and the world’s third), according to this year’s Economist Intelligence Unit Global Liveability Index, so too Australia’s buzziest nightlife, according to the latest Measuring The Night-Time Economy Report — that understands the romance of a grey sky and the theatre of rain against the bluestone; a city made for moody afternoons, flickering fireplaces, hidden bars and long lunches that slink off into dinner; a town that’s doesn’t delineate along lines of culture and sport, but which happily bundles them together (under a blanket and a beanie in regards to the latter).

Sometimes the best travel experience is not chasing warmth but finding a city that’s mastered the art of being beautifully cold. Which is why we’re for Melbourne at this time of year be it a weekend or something a little longer.

Read the latest edition of ROAM here.

We sat down with three of the capital’s (and country’s) most celebrated creatives to better explore their Melbourne this time of year, and unfurl some secrets about doing things the right way this winter.

Christian Kimber, designer

Kimber is a relocated Brit who’s been elevating the way Australian men dress since landing 15 years back. He’s always been for Melbourne — a city that’s nurtured a growing family and helped propel the sharp ascension of his eponymous label that today boasts two destination boutiques, international clients and ongoing applause from his May showing (alongside wife and business partner Renuka) at Australian Fashion Week.

Where do you head in Melbourne when the weather turns and calls for something deeply comforting?

Christian Kimber: There’s nothing quite like settling in at the bar at Supernormal (Flinders Lane, CBD) with a glass of wine. It’s one of those places that always hits the mark in winter. I tend to order a few things and share — the Korean rice cakes, those short, chewy noodles, are incredibly comforting, along with the prawn-stuffed zucchini flowers and the spicy short rib buns. It’s warm, familiar, and exactly what you want on a cold night.

Does the city’s cultural scene shift as the temps drop — any galleries, theatres, events you’re drawn to?

We love seeing jazz in winter and there’s nothing quite like a late-night session at The Paris Cat (CBD). Sitting there with a glass of red, listening to something a little sultry, it’s one of those experiences that instantly makes you feel warm and completely immersed. It’s intimate, dimly lit, and feels Melbourne very distinctly.

An incredibly intimate gallery experience is Lyon Housemuseum. It’s a hybrid residence and contemporary art museum on Cotham Road in Kew, housing the Lyon Collection in a purpose-designed space. The collection showcases some of the best of Australian contemporary art, and the structure itself is remarkable.

A go-to date night for us is dinner at Don’s (Prahan) — at the bar before the open kitchen — followed by a cabaret, comedy or independent show at Chapel Off Chapel a couple of blocks away. The menu at Don’s is always changing — shareable, perfectly paired with their wines and cocktails and the atmosphere and staff are incredibly welcoming.

Do you find design inspiration in the city’s winter style?

I love the way fashion shifts seasonally here more than anywhere else.

When it’s hot, it’s so hot — but when it’s cold, it really sets in, and the way people dress completely changes. Boots, coats, hats, gloves and scarves — layering, texture, and those richer earth and jewel-toned palettes start to come through. It’s my favourite season for style.

I love just observing it on a walk through the city — wandering down Flinders Lane, Collins Street or across Exhibition and Spring at any time of day or night, you really see that seasonal shift play out.

Any preferred ways to experience Melbourne on a crisp day, from morning rituals to late-night wanderings?

Definitely start with a coffee and a walk — either around The Tan Track with a coffee at Gilson (South Yarra), or along the St Kilda Esplanade, where somewhere like St. Ali is always a reliable stop.

Prahran Market is a weekly ritual for us — mulled wine and a cheese toastie at Maker & Monger is a must.

I love wandering the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) and this winter they’re presenting the Cartier exhibition — a landmark show and one you can spend real time with.

After that, I’d head to Palace Coffee (CBD) — some of the best in town, and their cardamom buns are exceptional. It’s standing room only, which also makes it ideal for people-watching.

I’ll usually stop into our boutique on Little Collins Street as well — to enjoy the design and best made-to-measure experience in town, of course, but to also hear what’s happening around the city; the team always has great insight into new openings.

To finish off, a martini and gildas at Apollo Inn (CBD) are non-negotiable.

Any uniquely “Melbourne in the cooler months” experiences you think every visitor should seek out?

There’s nothing quite like a game of footy at the MCG in winter. Just be sure to rug up. Afterwards, head to Jinda Thai — they’ll load you up with chilli if you ask, and it’s exactly what you want after being out in the cold.

Any bars, wine spots, or cosy corners you favour this time of year — and what are you ordering?

Our favourite date-night spot is Milton Wine Shop (Malvern). It’s a cosy, wood-panelled wine bar with an open fireplace and a beautifully lit courtyard. The wine list is expansive, the menu is short but very considered — from woodfired chicken to simple one-bite morsels — and the service is some of the warmest in the city. In the CBD, Hazel is another favourite.

If you’re after something a bit more playful, Batard, also in the city, is hard to beat. The terrace is heated, with a fireplace and soft lighting, and there’s an indoor tree that anchors the space beautifully. The burger is one of the best in town and the Passionfruit 75 — a nostalgic take on a French 75 with a sherbet-rimmed glass — yeah, it’s a standout.

Where, apart from your own boutiques, do you shop for winter essentials?

For women, I’d suggest High Street Armadale — it has a strong concentration of local designers and boutiques. For men, Little Collins Street in the CBD has become something of a hub — you can move between tailoring, casualwear and accessories quite easily, all within a few blocks.

And where would you stay to embrace the season’s moods?

We love a long weekend at Polperro farmhouse and villas on the Mornington Peninsula. It’s just an hour out of the city but feels completely removed.

The farmhouse has a mid-century feel, with an outdoor kitchen and firepit overlooking the vines. The villas are more intimate, with saunas and spas built in. There’s a real energy on the property — fruit being picked, long days, a sense of momentum — but as a guest it feels calm and atmospheric.

A long lunch in the dining room, sitting fireside or by the window overlooking the vineyard, is probably the most complete way to experience it. The chef’s menu moves with the season, driven by what’s coming out of the farm as things start to shift.

From a wine perspective, the chenin blanc drinks beautifully at that time of year, and chardonnay and pinot feel very at home with both the menu and the mood.

christiankimber.com

Alexandra Drewniak, photographer

A sought-after creative whose work comes framed by a sexy-punchy-urban aesthetic — often covering the world’s music and fashion. Drewniak is also a global Leica ambassador and the co-founder of Flat Pack Studios.

Melbourne in winter is the perfect excuse to . . .

Lock in, slow down and get cosy. It’s about intimate dinners with really good wine. Getting to the gallery. Booking Airbnbs down the coast. It’s a restorative time for me.

Your work is about chasing light — where do you think Melbourne wears winter best, those places that become more beautiful when the skies turn grey?

I’d say Melbourne wears winter best on those clear, cold mornings and at sunset. The light feels cleaner somehow, the frost catches and sparkles, and there’s this quiet, magical quality to the city that you don’t get at any other time of year.

Forget the obvious. Where are you taking someone for a perfect winter day?

A little drive out to Red Hill (Mornington Peninsula). Go to Red Hill Cellar & Pantry for all the snacks and all the condiments you could ever want. Then a walk through Heronswood. I’m in my landscaping and gardening era, so this place is amazing to walk around and get plants for your own garden. Dinner would be at my favourite restaurant in Victoria, Tedesca Osteria. And get yourself an Airbnb so you can lean in and have a long and deliciously boozy night.

Every creative has their sanctuaries. Which places refill your tank?

The sauna at EQ (South Melbourne) — they have windows to the outside and I love sitting in the magnesium pool, five storeys up, watching the weather rip havoc.

What’s the most Melbourne thing you can do in winter that simply wouldn’t make sense anywhere else?

We’re adventurous, no matter the weather. We’re not afraid of it, we get amongst it. Whether it’s the pub, the footy, an ocean swim, a gig or heading out to shoot a freezing sunrise, we’re always up for it.

What’s one Melbourne institution that deserves every bit of hype?

I’m a creature of habit. I love good service, amazing food, and a hefty winelist. And I love Marion (Fitzroy). Always have, always will.

ladydrewniak.com

Reko Rennie, artist

One of Australia’s most exciting contemporary artists, Rennie — a proud Kamilaroi man — has garnered international acclaim for his multidisciplinary works exploring and melding culture, identity, storytelling and graffiti. His works are held in the AGNSW Collection, the NGV ran a recent retrospective of his work — Rekosptective — he designed the Socceroos’ World Cup kit and continues to show both locally and across Europe, the US, China and beyond. He’s also a man only too happy to spruik the brilliance of a Melbourne winter.

Melbourne feels like it was designed for winter — where does the city become its most interesting once the temperature drops?

I love winter in Naarm, Melbourne. I tend to hit The Tan in the cold mornings and have a walk and run. Going past the Yarra River and Botanical Gardens are quite beautiful in the morning light. On a winter’s day, or evening in Melbourne, I like places like (wine bar) Napier Quarter (Fitzroy), Bar Olo (Carlton), Marios in Fitzroy and Tamura Sake Bar (Fitzroy).

Your work sits at the intersection of Indigenous culture, street culture and contemporary art. If you had one winter’s day to show someone the “real” Melbourne, your Naarm, what would be on the itinerary?

I’d jump in my car and fang to breakfast at Marios, then go to the NGV at Federation Square and show the diversity of Aboriginal art and culture on show. I’d also head out west and go through Yarraville, then Williamstown driving past the refinery and under the Westgate (bridge). I’d stop for lunch in Barkly Street (Footscray) and eat some great Vietnamese for lunch, then head over the Westgate and go via Beaconsfield Parade to St Kilda.

Every artist has places that quietly feed their creativity. Which Melbourne gallery, laneway, neighbourhood, pub or place gives you that spark?

NGV International always provides a spark. I never went to art school and so my experience of art and history began from this institution — it always inspires. Then there are the parks of Melbourne, Alexandra Gardens, Botanical Gardens, Carlton Gardens and then Bayside beach areas of the port running all the way to St Kilda.

I love to see graffiti (pieces) in and around the city. I don’t have one particular favourite neighbourhood, I have an affinity with various suburbs as I’ve lived there, or been connected to places via family connections.

Marios is a place that’s supported and nurtured creatives and you can’t get more Melbourne. There’s a few pubs I like — Fitzroy Arms, Builders Arms (Fitzroy), though I’m more of a bar guy.

Winter is when locals reclaim the city from the interlopers. Where do you go to escape the obvious and find the Melbourne most tourists miss?

I love heading out in winter and being in the cold and going for a walk. I love going in the water for early morning swims — it’s freezing but it’s refreshing and a great way to start the day. I also love driving through the city in winter late at night — it feels like I’m on a movie set with no one around and it’s just a great cinematic experience. Well, in my head it is.

There’s no doubt Melbourne is the food capital of Australia. And you know Melbourne has a very European feel, it’s an easy and small enough place to navigate. I think there’s obviously an amazingly rich cultural diversity here and, thanks to all our immigrants and different cultures that make up Melbourne, it shines through. There’s really is nowhere else like it.

rekorennie.com