From scrap metal to street art: The unlikely cool of Talat Noi, a Bangkok neighbourhood that can’t be curated

Bangkok is one of the world’s great cities, but it’s starting to look like one big ‘Instagrammable moment’. You can blame social media for that: thanks to TikTok and Pinterest, millions of visitors to Thailand’s vibrant capital — and there are millions: according to a recent Euromonitor International report, the city welcomed 32.4 million international travellers in 2024, making it the world’s most-visited city — are treading the same path.

Influenced by the same reels, they’re visiting the same temples, sampling the same viral matcha lattes; posing in front of the same sights on the way to the same malls, a “Ctrl-C, Ctrl-V” holiday writ large.

But Bangkok is nothing like that homogeneous vision being curated online. Like any of the world’s most vibrant metropolises, it’s a messy mix of wildly different neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct personality and style.

One of the funkiest and most interesting is Talat Noi in the historic Samphanthawong district.

Nestled next to Chinatown on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, it’s traditionally the city’s automotive repair centre and metal-working district, settled by the Chinese and Portuguese — in recent years it’s become better known as the hipster destination of choice for locals and travellers alike.

Filled to the brim with funky retro stores, galleries, must-try eateries and tucked-away coffee roasters, it’s a million miles from those run of the mill malls or seedy strips that litter “hashtag BKK” feeds — and it’s well worth a mosey around.

The best way to do this is by foot.

To save time, have a Grab (Asia’s Uber equivalent) or a MuvMi (Bangkok’s groovy electric tuktuk service: super cheep, and operated by scanning a QR code from an app) drop you off at your first destination, Charoen Krung 32 — if you’re feeling intrepid, you can also catch a ferry there, getting off at Si Phraya Pier.

Not only is Charoen Krung 32 a dead-end street littered with interesting street art, further up it boasts loads of great food vendors, serving up local delicacies from their carts until around 3pm. Make a stop for kuay teow kua gai (stir-fried chicken noodles): it’s a speciality of Talat Noi and there are a number of vendors famous for the dish situated here.

From there, cross a road and visit Warehouse 30, an old mid-century warehouse complex that’s been renovated to house some great sneaker shops, galleries, cafes and arts spaces.

Here you’ll find Horse Unit, a store specialising in mid-century curios and clothing — if vintage camo jackets are your thing, you’ve come to the right place! We were tempted to pick up a pair of original 1940s military-issue Converse sneakers for a reasonable price, and honestly, who wouldn’t want to go home with a pair of those as a souvenir?

Nearby, in Warehouse 6, is Coffee Roaster by li-bra-ry, a great place to stop and grab a coffee or pastry — take a detour round the corner to Soi Charoenkrung 30 and take a peek at renowned Portuguese street artist Vhils’ intricate wall carving on the wall of the Embassy of Portugal — it’s incredible, and a great place to pause a while with your iced latte before heading to our next destination: a mall.

Before you come at us — no, it’s not THAT type of mall. River City is a weird match of high-end auction houses, antique stores, galleries and strange little novelty stores — it’s both high brow and low brow all at the same time.

On the day we visited there was an exhibition celebrating 75 years of Snoopy — downstairs there’s a shop selling antique furniture for hundreds of thousands of dollars — extremely odd, but we were extremely there for it.

From here, we walked north, to a part of the neighbourhood that is a maze of narrow, pedestrian-only streets. The main thoroughfares are Soi Wanit 2 and Charoen Krung Road, one of the oldest streets in Bangkok.

Head up Soi Wanit 2 to Talat Noi’s infamous Bumblebee Transformer statue. This strange addition to the landscape sits in the middle of a roundabout and has become something of a local landmark — it’s made by a local craftsman called Heng Seng Junior out of disused scrap metal from the shops in the surrounding area.

From here, follow the road until you get to 965bkk, a fabulous old Chinese merchant house that has been transformed into a community art space, great cafe and gift shop.

Coffee is something that Bangkok does in abundance, and Talat Noi has no shortage of fabulous options. Tucked away opposite 965 is Mother Roaster, situated up a rickety century’s-old staircase above an old metalwork shop. It’s an oasis of calm, complete with cranky lounging street cats and unmatched vibes.

If that’s a little too grungy, there’s always nearby local favourite Sarnies, run by an Aussie expat Ben Lee, who began his cafe chain in Singapore before opening offshoots in the Thai capital — there’s one just around the corner and it serves up a killer flat white and ridiculously good choc brownie.

From Mother, follow the winding streets that run adjacent to the river. If you’re feeling peckish, stop at Naam 1609, a local favourite serving sensational Thai cuisine, with unmatched river views. Then, a stone’s throw away is Song Wat, Bangkok’s latest “it” street.

Full disclosure, this spot has become a favourite with those pesky TikTokkers and Instagrammers, who can be seen cranking out peace signs and posing up a storm in front of the street’s many landmark spots.

But don’t let it put you off — the surrounding streets are a veritable treasure trove of art and history, littered with wonderful street art murals, hidden stores (don’t miss the tiny homemade chocolate shop next to a rusted-out old car), the old Portuguese Holy Rosary church and historical sights like the 200-year-old So Heng Tai mansion, an old Hokkien house steeped in history, or the nearby Hakka Rong Kuek Shrine.

By this stage you’re just a stone’s throw from China Town and famous Yaowarat Road, and if you’ve timed your slow meander — the walk is about three kilometres and will take you about three to four hours of slow wandering — you’ll finish up in the early evening, just in time to cruise past the bustling Sampheng markets to finish up with a dumpling.

You’ve done this neighbourhood at the pace it deserves — you’ve earnt that celebratory steamed bun.