Red sand and camel tracks: Charlie Albone’s journey through the heart of Uluru

If you told me I’d be riding a camel through the central desert of Australia as the sun dipped behind Uluru, I’d probably laugh and ask if I could bring my shovel.

But here Clarissa and I are, strapped on top of a 800 kilo camel, hats on, gently swaying atop, with the greatest natural wonder in the country glowing before me. And to be honest? I’ve never felt more at peace.

Our Better Homes and Gardens crew has taken me to some pretty incredible places over the years, but this trip, filming in Uluru feels different. It’s not just the scenery, though that’s jaw-dropping.

It’s the energy and atmosphere of the sacred land. The slow pace. The ancient silence. The way everything here feels connected — to land, to story, to something greater than ourselves.

Ships of the desert

We begin our adventure with Uluru Camel Tours, and I have to say, it’s not just a novelty. It’s one of the best ways to experience the desert. Our cameleer, Dan, introduces us to the team: a small convoy of camels, each with their own quirks and reputations.

Mounting a camel is an experience in itself, like being gently tossed on a slow-moving rollercoaster. Once up, though, you find a rhythm. The camels glide across the dunes like they’ve done it for centuries, which, in many ways, they have. Originally brought to Australia in the 1800s to help explore the outback, these animals once carried mail, timber and water. Now they carry wide-eyed travellers like me, giving us a rare, moving view of the red centre.

As Clarissa and I travel along on our Camel, the sun begins to drop, and Uluru looms larger with every step. The sky morphs from bright gold to deep crimson, and the rock glows like it’s lit from within. We ride in near silence, the soft shuffle of camel feet the only sound, and I find myself smiling, just quietly taking it all in. This isn’t just a ride. It’s a passage.

Sunrise stories and light shows

We wake early (really early) the next morning to experience something entirely new: Sunrise Journeys. Still half-asleep, sit in anticipation with cups of warm native chai in hand, waiting for the desert to wake up.

And then it does.

A slow bloom of light on the horizon is the first sign, but then the ground itself becomes a canvas. Lasers and projections bring Indigenous art to life, rippling across the red earth in brilliant colour and sound.

Created by local Anangu women and accompanied by their own narration and music, the story unfolds around us.

There really is nowhere in this world like Uluru, and with birds in flight, flowers blooming, all tied to the sacred cycles of the land, you can’t help but marvel in all of the natural phenomenons on our doorstep.

We chat with Matt Cameron-Smith, CEO of Voyages Indigenous Tourism, after the sunrise show. “We created this show after talking to the community, love of country, their connection and how they want to share their culture, and bring their culture closer to the guests,” he says.

The light show is based on a painting by three Anangu artists, and in English it translates to “Our country is truly beautiful”.

Gardens of the desert

Later that day, Clarissa and I explore the native food garden at Sails in the Desert.

I’ll admit, I’m a plant guy, so this is right up my alley. Our guide Nisha walks us through rows of saltbush, mulga, inland tea tree, and blue mallee, explaining how the local people have used these plants for food, medicine and shelter for tens of thousands of years.

It blows me away to think that the same bush I’m touching was once crushed into paste for healing wounds, or brewed into a tea that fights colds. It’s the ultimate sustainable landscape, designed by nature and cultivated with deep knowledge.

I see it all with fresh eyes now. Back home, I’m always talking about the connection between people and the land in gardens. Here, that connection isn’t just philosophy, it’s reality.

Native High Tea with a Twist

From the garden, we move to the Australian Native High Tea, and it’s no ordinary tea party.

The chef behind it all, Graciela Jonen, greets us with a tray of wattleseed tartlets and lemon myrtle scones that smell like heaven. Each bite features ingredients grown in the area or inspired by it, including bush tomatoes, finger lime, desert herbs.

Even the tea, crafted by Blak Brews, is native-infused. My favourite? A zingy blend of quandong, desert finger and strawberry gum called Desert Sunrise. It tastes like the landscape wild and invigorating.

Cooking an iconic Aussie fish in front of an iconic landmark

Clarissa is inspired, of course, and later that afternoon she whips up the most delicious lemon myrtle crumbed barramundi with a saltbush salad out on the Wintjiri Wiru platform, with Uluru in full view.

I handle the tasting duties. It’s fresh, light, and packed with native flavour. A perfect tribute to the land we’re standing on.

Charlie and Clarissa’s Uluru adventure airs in Better Homes and Gardens at 7pm Friday May 2 and May 8 on Seven.